The vast majority of bar shampoos include Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI), an inexpensive surfactant derived from coconut oil. You will usually find it second in the list of ingredients (1st being the most important in %, last the least important). It is mainly used for its foaming effect
It presents a risk of ocular and skin irritation because of its detergent effect, which is much less risky than Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, another cleaning ingredient in solid products
However, bar shampoo requires 2-3x more surfactants than liquid shampoo. Therefore you find SCI in the first 2 ingredients of the ingredients list (INCI list). The concentration often exceeds 40% and leads to higher risks. It is considered | safe for use at 50% in rinse-off products and at 17% in leave-on products |
The main issue is its manufacturing process which requires ethylene oxide, classified as "carcinogenic, mutagenic and toxic for reproductive organs agent" by the DGCCRF. The ethylene oxide | is banned in cosmetics |. It is thus dangerous for those who use it and raises questions about the management of manufacturing waste. In February 2021, there was a very large number of | food products recall | contaminated by the ethylene oxide
The COSMOS Organic standard prohibits the use of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Cold process (saponification) soaps are also not a good idea. They have a minimum pH of 7, while the scalp has a pH around 5.5. This difference irritates and destabilizes the scalp
Therefore our shampoo will not be a bar one
Take care!
Maryll
